tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-31404517262855048412024-03-14T00:42:34.639-07:00Journey Back to the TableJoin the journey of a longtime gamer who has put the hobby on hold for over 20 years as he moves from the pure modelling aspect of the game to the actual purpose of playing the game.
Content will focus on, but is not limited to, Battlefront's "Flames of War," and whatever else might spark my interest.SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.comBlogger87125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-41233321458504230572014-02-17T06:16:00.003-08:002014-02-17T06:16:53.657-08:00Japanese Type 92 70mm gun Platoon<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Jap%2070mm%20gun%20Mortar/DSCF8595_zps14fc4575.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Jap%2070mm%20gun%20Mortar/DSCF8595_zps14fc4575.jpg" height="188" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: KO;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: KO;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: KO;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">Next up in my Japanese force is the Hohei Battalion Gun Platoon with the Type 92
70mm gun. For the Japanese, the Type 92 takes the role of 81-82mm Battalion mortars in other armies. It looks easy to put together from the components, but there was a fair amount of filing that had to be done to put the wheels on. You will see in the pictures that the gun tube is pointing down...try as I could, I just couldn't get a pose with the tube pointing up. :-(</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: KO;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span></span>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: KO;">Other than that it painted nicely. </span><br />
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<b>Platoon Leader and Observer:</b><br />
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<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Jap%2070mm%20gun%20Mortar/DSCF8599_zpsb9f3f1d0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Jap%2070mm%20gun%20Mortar/DSCF8599_zpsb9f3f1d0.jpg" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Jap%2070mm%20gun%20Mortar/DSCF8604_zps93cc4047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Jap%2070mm%20gun%20Mortar/DSCF8604_zps93cc4047.jpg" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>1st Gun:</b><br />
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<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Jap%2070mm%20gun%20Mortar/DSCF8607_zps272403c4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Jap%2070mm%20gun%20Mortar/DSCF8607_zps272403c4.jpg" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>2nd Gun:</b><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: KO;"><br />
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</span>SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-73281027209801044102014-01-11T03:49:00.003-08:002014-01-11T03:49:23.421-08:00Japanese Type 94 37mm gun Rapid-Fire Gun Platoon<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: KO;">Finally back to painting and playing Flames of War.
For those that don't know, I suffer from chronic neck and back pain and
every 6 months or so the pain gets so bad I can't play or paint until I get
some epidural injections of a magical medical mixture that puts it all right
for another 6 months.<br />
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Just before my hands started hurting from the neck pain, I had started some
more Japanese units. In this case, it was the Hohei Rapid-Fire Gun Platoon
with the Type 94 37mm gun. The Type 94 37mm gun is the main long range anti-tank asset...and boy does this army need long range Anti-tank assets!.<br />
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The Type 94 37mm gun platoon!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Japanes%2037mm%20AT/DSCF8336_zps6b1abc27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Japanes%2037mm%20AT/DSCF8336_zps6b1abc27.jpg" height="298" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em>Pretty simple to put together</em></td></tr>
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<strong>Platoon Leader:</strong></div>
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<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Japanes%2037mm%20AT/DSCF8560_zpseb103596.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Japanes%2037mm%20AT/DSCF8560_zpseb103596.jpg" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
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<strong>1st Gun Team:</strong><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Japanes%2037mm%20AT/DSCF8570_zps2032fbe8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Japanes%2037mm%20AT/DSCF8570_zps2032fbe8.jpg" height="298" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em>Wheel is a little wonky :-(</em></td></tr>
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<strong>2nd Gun Team:</strong><br />
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<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Japanes%2037mm%20AT/DSCF8583_zps1052511c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Japanes%2037mm%20AT/DSCF8583_zps1052511c.jpg" height="298" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Japanes%2037mm%20AT/DSCF8587_zps9d022e30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Japanes%2037mm%20AT/DSCF8587_zps9d022e30.jpg" height="298" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em>Some how I left off the RED part of the platoon ID (Middle set of slashes should be WHITE RED)</em></td></tr>
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SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-27943185065652184122013-11-06T04:35:00.002-08:002014-01-09T10:13:44.507-08:00Guards Armored Regiment<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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A few buddies and I spilt the Open Fire box set a while back and I got the Sherman Vs. I was dying to see how the new plastics painted up...but there weren't enough there to make a full unit....so what to do...what to do...well that is easy, buy enough tanks to make the full unit of course. ;-)<br>
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So, with 6 Sherman Vs and 2 Firefly Shermans from the Open Fire set, I needed to get quite a few more models to represent a unit from the No. 2 Squadron, 2nd Guards Regiment (Coldstream Guards) in Market Garden. <br>
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So I found Sherman V platoon box set on sale (Go Hobbytown USA!) and a few blisters to give me 3 Platoons and the Command Section, for a whopping total of 10 Sherman Vs and 6 Fireflies (up to 2 Fireflies per platoon in Market Garden).
And of course....you cant run the Irish Guards at Market Garden with JOE Vandeleur.<br>
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<strong>JOE Vandeleur</strong>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em>Michael Caine! (Always loved the Kelly Green Neck Scarf)</em></td></tr>
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<strong>RAF Air Controller</strong></div>
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<strong>Company Command Section:</strong><br>
<strong></strong><br>
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<strong></strong><br>
<strong>1st Platoon:</strong><br>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I have this platoon with the 2 Firely/plt option for Market Garden</td></tr>
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<strong> </strong><br>
<strong>2nd Platoon</strong><br>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2nd and 3rd Platoon have option for 1 or 2 Fireflies/Plt</td></tr>
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<strong>3rd Platoon</strong></div>
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2 extra Fireflies to bring 2nd and 3rd Plt up to 2 Fireflies/Plt. As is, 2nd and 3rd Plt are perfect for Normandy battles with 3 Sherman Vs and 1 Firefly..<br>
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All the antennae are either bristles from a brush I found or stretched plastics sprue. I am moving away from using piano wire after some rather nasty bloodletting incidents.</div>
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I look forward to expanding this list with some infantry and artillery...should allow be to any British on the West of Europe from D-Day to the end of the war.</div>
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SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-40460630282632637772013-10-11T04:04:00.001-07:002013-10-11T04:04:11.183-07:00RangerDane Commission--- Battlefront Easy Eights and M8 ScottsJust finished up a commission job for a member of our local and regular on the <a href="http://forum.wwpd.net/" target="_blank">WWPD Forums</a>...RangerDane. He had some Battlefront M4A3E8 (Easy Eights, M8 Scotts and an AOP he wanted me to paint.<br />
<br />
These were a fun lot to paint had. Very nice models.<br />
<br />
Enjoy!<br />
<br />
<strong>M4A3E8 Easy Eights.</strong><br />
<br />
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8255_zpsfde69630.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8255_zpsfde69630.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8257_zps62c2f921.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8257_zps62c2f921.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8258_zpsc5aaaf2f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8258_zpsc5aaaf2f.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8260_zps248ace07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8260_zps248ace07.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8262_zps8e1b4c7f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8262_zps8e1b4c7f.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8265_zpsd4bb336b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8265_zpsd4bb336b.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8267_zpsfe20d9cb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8267_zpsfe20d9cb.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8269_zpsee1053eb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8269_zpsee1053eb.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8271_zps117c2e05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8271_zps117c2e05.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8273_zpsae853d70.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8273_zpsae853d70.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8275_zps5e16a6fd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8275_zps5e16a6fd.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8277_zps6d2443c8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8277_zps6d2443c8.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8279_zps10f7a6bf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8279_zps10f7a6bf.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8280_zps16985b26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8280_zps16985b26.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8283_zps043e3082.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8283_zps043e3082.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8285_zps0308860a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8285_zps0308860a.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8287_zps77fd2f0e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8287_zps77fd2f0e.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8288_zpsc235c577.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8288_zpsc235c577.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8292_zpsa80d9a6c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8292_zpsa80d9a6c.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8294_zpsf2edcf85.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8294_zpsf2edcf85.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8295_zpsd71c3c5a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8295_zpsd71c3c5a.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8297_zpsb7662962.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8297_zpsb7662962.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8300_zpsdb3d4af5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8300_zpsdb3d4af5.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8302_zpsc268338e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8302_zpsc268338e.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
<strong>AOP:</strong><br />
<br />
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8249_zpsee786244.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8249_zpsee786244.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8250_zps64b7dfbb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8250_zps64b7dfbb.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8252_zpsb06db130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8252_zpsb06db130.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<strong>M8 Scotts:</strong><br />
<br />
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8225_zpsad9451a7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8225_zpsad9451a7.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8228_zpsec02eaa4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8228_zpsec02eaa4.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8230_zpsdae1af0f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8230_zpsdae1af0f.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8232_zps12d16f90.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8232_zps12d16f90.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8234_zps7c663949.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8234_zps7c663949.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8236_zpse34fbd20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8236_zpse34fbd20.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8238_zpsd0de12e8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8238_zpsd0de12e8.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8240_zps109cf1c1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8240_zps109cf1c1.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8241_zps59748f2d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8241_zps59748f2d.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8244_zps44b7f5d2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8244_zps44b7f5d2.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8246_zps922bf49f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8246_zps922bf49f.jpg" width="400" /></a>
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All US Ammo cans had Yellow writing on the front and back....Had to add it :-)<br />
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8242_zpsdb0b08c3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/RangerDane%20Commissions/DSCF8242_zpsdb0b08c3.jpg" width="400" /></a>
SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-89162256606032127622013-09-22T18:14:00.001-07:002013-10-10T03:27:27.138-07:00Still alive and kickingIts been a while since my last post...I was busy cranking out some reviews on <a href="http://www.flamesofwar.com/" target="_blank">Battlefront's</a> new Japanese line of figures. You can find these over at <a href="http://www.wwpd.net/" target="_blank">WWPD.</a><br />
<br />
Specifically:<br />
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<a href="http://www.wwpd.net/2013/09/review-battlefronts-hohei-chutai-boxed.html" target="_blank">Japanese Hohei</a> (Was also cross posted on the Battlefront Main Page the week of 12 Sep 13!!)<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.wwpd.net/2013/09/review-battlefronts-light-sensha.html" target="_blank">Japanese Ha-Go Tank Platoon</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.wwpd.net/2013/10/review-battlefronts-japanese-cavalry.html" target="_blank">Japanese Kihei Cavalry Platoon</a> <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.wwpd.net/2013/10/battlefronts-japanese-hohei-hmg-platoon.html" target="_blank">Japanese Hohei HMG</a><br />
<g be="" nbsp="" o="" p="" platoon="" published=""><br />
<a href="http://www.wwpd.net/2013/10/battlefronts-japanese-nikihaku-blister.html" target="_blank">Japanese Nikihaku Teams</a><br />
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With that behind me, I have time to devote back to my projects and sharing them here first hand.<br />
<br />
Keep posted because next post will be pix of the commission job I just finished for a member of our local crew...Ranger Dane. Some more US goodness.<br />
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</g>SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-20141121343748881312013-07-29T06:11:00.003-07:002013-07-29T06:11:30.986-07:00WWPD Operation Overlord --- US 4th Armored Rolls onMy buddy Michael (Link2Edition) and I were at it again this weekend getting another campaign game in...possibly our last for this campaign as there are like 5 days remaining :-( This time we played at our local Hobbytown, where actually started playing Flames about 2 years ago. The mission was Pincer (oh.....how I hate Pincer)<br />
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<em>Jawohlt Major....I will give as complete a report of the actions in Lestre as I can.</em><br />
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<em>After defeating the American Rangers my FusilierKompanie was forced to pull back as the entire front collapsed...the remnants were merged with elements of the 2nd Panzer Division near Lestre with me leading a KampfGruppe of:</em><br />
<em></em><br />
<em>HQ: 2 PzIVH</em><br />
<em>1st Plt: 4 PzIVH</em><br />
<em>2nd Plt: 4 PzIVH</em><br />
<em>Recon: 1 Puma Patrol (2 Puma)</em><br />
<em>AA: Armored Quad 2cm (2 ea)</em><br />
<em>Infantry: Gepanzerte Panzer Grenadier (3 Squads)</em><br />
<em>Artillery: 8 Panzerwerfer 42</em><br />
<em></em><br />
<em>The little village we occupied was "quaint" as are most French villages....</em><br />
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<em>Integration was going smoothly until we heard the rumble of tanks in the distance.</em> <br />
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<em>The Artillery forward observers reported seeing an American Armored column head right for us. Damn the luck!!! At least half my force is back in the Division rear getting resupplied...."Quick call Battalion and have them send 2nd plt, the Pumas, and the AA back here as soon as they can." I know it will be a while before we will see them. We must make do with 1st Platoon the Infantry and the PanzerWerfers.</em><br />
<em></em><br />
<em>"Sir...the observers report seeing the following Ami's approaching:</em><br />
<em></em><br />
<em>- 2 Plts of Shermans (M4s)</em><br />
<em>- 1 Plt of Sherman 105s (3 ea)</em><br />
<em>- 1 Plt Armored Rifles (5 halftracks and the infantry)</em><br />
<em>- 1 Plt of Cav recon (2 jeeps and a Greyhound)</em><br />
<em>- 1 security section for Tank Destroyers....not sure which type"</em><br />
<em></em><br />
<em>All that headed straight for us.... Quick...to Arms!!!! Get the infantry into their positions and the Panzers into ambush....get the rocket launchers manned....we will need them.</em><br />
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Setup:<br />
<br />
I started on the open end of the map (hoping to slow him down with terrain and arty until reserves arrived) with my Infantry dug-in on the left side blocking the edge and the buildings on the left and with the Panzerwerfers behind the hill and woods on the right and center...out of LOS for the most part. one observer in each of the 2nd stories of the buildings by the infantry to spot the center and the left side...the Panzerwerfer Platoon Leader would spot the right side. Michael Split his force...Infantry to the town and 1 plt of Shermans, the 105s and the Recon to the left and the rest to the right through the wheat fields.<br />
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<strong>Turn 1:</strong><br />
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<em>The Americans are moving forward...the 105s attempt to dislodge the Infantry with gunfire to no effect... The American Sherman Plt on the left must have seen the glint of the lead observers' binos...and all guns fired at his position. All attempts to reach the FO failed after that...Cruel payback for our taking out the Ranger FO a few days ago...fate I suppose.</em><br />
<em></em><br />
<em>The halftracks move into the center of town and the other tanks move through the wheat fields.</em><br />
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<em>Tell the Panzers to attack from ambush and attack the 105s...tell the Observer to call for fire on the Infantry while they are in their tracks...</em><br />
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The scream of rockets fills the air and slams into the Armored Rifles...destroying 1 halftrack and 2 teams and the infantry dismount and run for the buildings. The PzIVHs pop from ambush and drive forward to engage the 105s, killing one, bailing the other 2 as well as an attached recovery vehicle....MORALE TEST!!!<br />
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<em>Fritz! I can see the wavering and wanting to run....wait...what ...Who is that? NO!!! The American Commander is yelling at the to stay and fight!!!. Mein Gott...they are returning to their tanks. So close....</em><br />
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<strong>Turn 2</strong><br />
<strong></strong><br />
<em>The Shermans on the left pushed forward to engage the PzIVs....Ach du Lieber! Hellcats!!!! That security section on th eright has lead HELLCATS to the flanks of the Panzers. This will not be pretty. The infantry are firing at the other observer...luckily the miss the observer.and mange to kill a team of infantry...luckily...rockets still have eyes at least into the town. Have the rockets pummel the Infan....WHAM!!!!!!!! Bail out...Bail out!!!!!!</em> (A neat trick Michael used to target the FO...while explain at the end)<br />
<em></em><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Op%20Overlord%20Game%203/DSCF7815_zps6b437739.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><em><img border="0" height="300" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Op%20Overlord%20Game%203/DSCF7815_zps6b437739.jpg" width="400" /></em></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><em>CiC PzIVH dies as well as another from the platoon with a 3rd bailing out. If I jumped my CiC I would have forced a Morale Test for the platoon as they would then have been below half operational. I decided not to push my luck.</em></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<em></em><br />
<em>From here Major I was without a tank and communications. I couldn't make it to another vehicle to take charge. All I could see was the Hellcats on the left taking out my tank and another from the Panzer platoon and bailing out a third. I heard the rockets land in the town and then the screams of the Americans...knowing that a few more American teams fell.</em><br />
<em></em><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mortar team ...Skullified!</td></tr>
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<em>Turn 3 & 4:</em><br />
<br />
<em>From here I could only watch the action on the left and as I tried in vein to move forward...my injuries were to great and I couldn't make progress to the remaining tanks before they died. The order of events are a bit jumbled....I saw some of the Panzerwerfers take hits as well...and before they fired again killing a Sherman and more infantry (when do those American Infantry ever break and run!) I saw the Panzerwerfers engage the Hellcats with MG fire. The PzIVs moved to engage the Hellcats and killed one at least...bailing 2 more...The Infantry will have to hold the Shermans until help arrives or the Hellcats die...whichever comes first. The Shermans assaulted the Infantry and had to pull back before destroying them utterly, but he infantry stayed in the fight</em><br />
<em></em><br />
<em>Then I saw 2 more PzIVs brew up and the 3rd bail out...but that sole remaining crew braved the odds and stayed with their tank. After all this sir, that crew deserves an Iron Cross.</em><br />
<em></em><br />
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<em></em><br />
<em>After that I passed out...and awoke to see my command destroyed....</em><br />
<em></em><br />
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<em>I have to ask...where were my reserves...If I had them maybe.....</em><br />
<em></em><br />
<strong>Aftermath:</strong><br />
<strong></strong><br />
6-1 victory to the Americans. Another great game to Michael. This one was interesting...It was the first time I ran all 8 Panzerwerfers and the Pie Plate of Doom. Not bad...but at 405 points not worth it in this game. If I dropped them and added a 3rd PzIVH platoon of 3 tanks at 270 and bumped the Infantry to Lehr without their transports and Kampfgrupped the 2IC and the 4th tank from the other 2 tank platoons I would have had 8 plats and more on the table at the start...maybe...<br />
<br />
Also Michael did a neat little trick I mentioned earlier. I had an FO near my Infantry. He had his Cav section lift GTG on the Infantry...so they needed 5+ to hit. The FO needed 6s. He then targeted the FO forcing it to join the Infantry and now that combined platoon only needed 5+ to hit...nice way to at least get a chance of a hit on an FO...at least as long as they don't need 7+ as no hits can be assigned in that case.<br />
<br />
Great game yet again...and I learned a little more. Was good to play at the HobbyTown store again...Michael had bought a bunch of terrain at Historicon as well and he got to baptize it with fire.<br />
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SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-37763229434428308302013-07-15T04:23:00.002-07:002013-07-28T08:21:47.732-07:00WWPD Operation Overlord BatRep "Rangers Breakout"The Americans have landed in force. Somewhere...Somehow... SOMETHING went wrong. We knew they were coming, but this? Here? All reports showed they would be invading farther North near the Pas-de-Calais. Regimental Headquarters says this is a diversion, like Dieppe, and the real attack will still hit farther North.<br />
<br />
This doesn't feel like any large scale raid! At Dieppe they didn't drop paratroops like we fought near St-Marie- Elgise. And now reports show armor and infantry landing en masse on the beaches.<br />
<br />
Raid or not...we have been ordered to move to a little village crossroads in Le-Molay-Littoy and secure the crossroads and several key buildings and crossings through the maze like bocage. <br />
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******************** PRE GAME ***********************<br />
<br />
This was a 1780 point Blind Domination mission between a German Fusilier Kompanie and a Ranger Company, both from the new DDay compilations. <br />
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Germans (SonBae:): 9 Platoons<br />
- HQ with Panzerschrek and Sniper<br />
- 3 Fusilier Platoons<br />
- Festungs MG Plt<br />
- Festungs Mortar Plt<br />
- 2 StuG Platoons<br />
- Festungs AA (37mm en portee)<br />
- Scout Platoon<br />
<br />
Ranger Company (Link2Edition): 10 Platoons<br />
- HQ (SMG)<br />
- 3 Ranger Companies<br />
- Partisan Plt (Fearless Conscript) AKA "The Sparta-sans")<br />
- Sherman Plt (5 tanks)<br />
- M10 TD Platoon<br />
- 81mm Mortar Plt<br />
- Cav Recce Patrol<br />
- Halftrack TD Platoon<br />
- 105mm Arty Battery<br />
<br />
The Battlefield:<br />
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Americans are the Attackers and choose to attack on the Northern long edge<br />
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******************************************************<br />
Turn 1<br />
<br />
Our scouts came into town just north of the crossroads, just west of the center of our sector and the reported hearing vehicles coming from east along the road.<br />
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German scouts head for the 3 point building south of the road while first securing the 2 point bocage crossing. German FOs enter with the scouts and one just to the east of town. Americans Cav patrol come barreling down the road to get the 3 pointers...the 105mm Arty FO is with the them.</div>
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Turn 2:</div>
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Our scouts have reported an American recce patrol along the road. It also appears that some disorganized rabble is moving into the Bocage...French Partisans now doubt. and some American infantry in the center as well... Good thing our armored support is right behind them moving into the village right in the middle of our sector </div>
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Turn 3:</div>
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The American FO dismounts and moves into the steeple of the ruined church and the American Cav patrol heads to our scouts! Americans begin to appear everywhere on the Northern edge...to include Shermans and what appears to be a security section for a tank destroyer unit....joy.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Overlord%20Game%202/DSCF7719_zpsba9f7c31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Overlord%20Game%202/DSCF7719_zpsba9f7c31.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">End of the Top of Turn 3</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Overlord%20Game%202/DSCF7720_zpsf0c1571b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/Overlord%20Game%202/DSCF7720_zpsf0c1571b.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">End of the top of turn 3 view from the west</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Now it is time to act quickly....The AA guns move along buildings and one is able to swing around and bring its gun to bear on the recon patrol, killing a jeep with a .50 cal MG! The StuGs open fire on the poor FO in the steeple...6 shots ring out and after the dust clears we see a pair of binoculars fall to the ground. With the MG jeep down from the Cav patrol our scouts assault the Cav patrol and kill a mortar jeep and send the Grey hound running as fast as it's namesake. And we secure the 3 point building!<br />
<br />
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<br />
Turn 4:<br />
<br />
American M10s appear in the rubble on the North of town and kill 4 StuGs and send a 5th running...COWARD!!! Halftracks and Partisans move deeper into the bocage with halftracks taking shots at the 3 point building to no effect.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">End of the top of turn 4</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Two AA guns move into the street to engage the M10s and the 3rd moves along side the 3 pt point to take on the halftracks. Their shooting is outstanding, killing an M10 and 2 halftracks! The remaining StuG kills another M10. Mortars drop on the Partisans killing a few teams and the infantry move forward..2 platoons to the church and one to the support the scouts.<br />
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Turn 5<br />
<br />
American return fire kills the AA guns and their platoon leader runs away. We will deal with him later. Partisans move closer as does a Ranger Company...both are contesting our control of the 3 point objectives! The American Tanks move into the open..M10s and the remaining StuG trade shots to no avail. Mortar fire lands on the Partisans again, killing a teams.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">End of Turn 5</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Turn 6<br />
<br />
All chaos breaks out...The Partisans assault the scouts and send them running, taking the 3 point objective in the process...as does the Ranger Company assaulting through a smokescreen into the Church...at least we still contest there.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">End of the top of turn 6</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The Fusilier Platoon attacks the Partisans and kicks them out of the building and out of range to contest control. An assault back into the church fails, but we still contest. The StuG kills another M10, but their platoon leader is made of sterner stuff than the 2 cowards I had who fled. Mortar fire kills a third halftrack and a partisan....again the American platoon stays even when below half. Time is running short<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">End of the bottom of turn 6</td></tr>
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Turn 7<br />
<br />
Americans move to secure and hold what they have and the Partisans try to assault again, only to be pushed back and to eventually run away entirely. The 3 point building is secure! A panzerschrek takes aim at a Sherman and hits, only to have the crew bail out. The remaining Fusilier Platoon attempts to assault the rangers in the church, after some success they are forced to retreat.<br />
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<br />
But that is enough!!!!!! The Americans begin to disengage and pull back as our reinforcements can be heard in the distance.<br />
<br />
Result...game called due to time with 5 Domination Points for the Germans and only 4 for the Americans with 3 points still contested. resulting in a 5-2 Axis victory! ( Germans lost 2 platoons, but since they had 9 platoons at start the first platoon lost doesn't count....so glad I didn't attach the HMGs out).<br />
<br />
Great game with Michael as always!<br />
<br />
<br />SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-24509931446482469322013-07-10T04:47:00.003-07:002013-07-10T04:52:39.978-07:00German SS PaK40 Anti Tank Gun Platoon<br />
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<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">As part of the SS Grenadier Company Box, I got 3 of the
metal PaK40s. I did this up ahead of the infantry because I was testing out options for the last local tournament and these were a strong contender...so had to get them painted :-)</span></div>
<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span></o:p><br />
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I learned a really good tactic in how to use these bad
boys when running my Grenadiers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Typically my Infantry platoons are dug-in and holding a position.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If I place these guns right behind the
infantry and where they can see about 3-4 inches in front of the infantry, they
can stop an armored assault.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Remember,
in Flames of War Gun teams can shoot over dug in stationary infantry...you can
do the same with HMG teams to stop infantry assaults.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Placing them behind the infantry can help
protect the gun teams...especially if they are in a tree line.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now this is a totally defensive tactic, but
is effective.</span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Over to the painting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The crew are pretty standard.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
gun itself was not TOO difficult to put together.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Wheels, gun trails, barrel, and
gunshield.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hardest part was getting the
gunshield and the barrel on and aligned.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It took a little fiddling and some extra filing, but worked out in the
end.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span></o:p><br />
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">These were some of the first figures I painted on the
stand instead of painting each figure separately on a nail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I did paint the gun separately though.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was <em>MUCH</em> faster to paint the crew/infantry
on the stand.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The first step in painting with figures on the stand is
to apply all the basing materiel first.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> By this I mean everything short of the grass/flock.
</span>This is important in that if you wait till the very end, after you you
have painted everything, you stand the chance (and in my case the certainty) of
getting some of the basing materiel on the painted models.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you do all the pumice, sand, grit, etc...
up front you can be a little rougher to ensure good coverage. And if something does gets on the model, it is easy to clean up since the figure hasn't been painted yet...it is <em>A LOT</em> less nerve wracking to put
the basing materiel on first. When I painted my models first and then glued them to the stand and then applied my basing mix...I was <em>ALWAYS</em> worried about getting something on my works of art. Now its no sweat.</span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p><br />
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<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">One thing to keep in mind if you have figures that are
laying on the ground.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On these I glued
the lying down figure on the base first then built up the dirt and other basing
materiel around him.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This makes him look
like he is much deeper in the dirt/grass than the other figures on the
base.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What I have taken to doing with
laying down figures and mortars is to leave them off of the base, but glue down
all the other fig res in their proper positions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I then pumice/sand/grit the entire base.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>When that materiel is dry I then go in and glue the laying down figure on
top of the dirt, very much like he would do in real life.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This lifts that figure up and prevents that quicksand
look I have here...oh well, live and learn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>You have to experiment to grow I guess.</span><br />
<br />
Another thing about applying the models to the bases and applying your texture before you paint is that you can add tire tracks very easily.<br />
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<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> This is something I do to all my guns. A gun position is a messy sight. Mud is churned up where ever the crew walks and where the gun is brought into position. I first layout the position, sort of a dry fit and mark on the base where the guns tires are as well as where the spades on the trails will hit. Now extend the mark of the tire location off of the front of the base and off the back or side if you want to continue it off the base. Makes sure the tire marks go off the edge of the base so you can see where they. Taking off the base isn't necessary as those tracks would be chewed up by the crews movements on the position. Next is to glue down the crew, but not the gun. Apply your texture ground base mix of choice and where you made the where the spades on the gun trail hit the hit make a little mound of mix just behind the mark and on the mark apply the mix a little thinner. This shows the spade digging into the ground. To make the tire tracks just trace along the marks you made to where the tire stopped or off the back edge with the back of an old paintbrush. Right behind the breach shouldn't have any tracks as this is the busiest location on the gun and the tracks would be chewed up quickly. the paint it up with darker colors t the bottom...and if you want to show wet dirt/mud just add a little gloss varnish to the mix.</span></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Next step is to prime the stand.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I then paint my dirt and then the
troops.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">For the troops I used my standard Waffen SS color
palette below.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
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<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> </div>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">For the guns I used the same color palette I used for the
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">with the armored AA halftracks. The guns were all airbrushed with Vallejo Middlestone (882) as a base color and then stripes of German Camo Medium Brown (826) and Reflective Green (890) were handpainted. I wasn't comfortable getting into some of the tight spaces and awkward angles with my airbrush yet...<em>YET</em>.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">
</span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br />
The tires were basecoated 950 black and then lighter colors built up with drybrushing ....first 862 Black Grey 836 London Grey then finally 870 Medium Sea Grey.</span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Now the pictures!</span><o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><strong>Platoon Leader:<o:p></o:p></strong></span></div>
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<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><strong>Gun #1:<o:p></o:p></strong></span></div>
<br />
<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span></o:p><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/SS%20PG%20Pak40/DSCF7488_zps4ffb9521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/SS%20PG%20Pak40/DSCF7488_zps4ffb9521.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">
</span><br />
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<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><strong>Gun #2:<o:p></o:p></strong></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><strong>Gun #3:<o:p></o:p></strong></span></div>
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Not too happy with the fleshtones. I was running low on my 869 Medium Flesh and was trying to stretch it to make it last and added too much of the 955 Flat Flesh (which I had plenty). When I have time I will touch these guys up.<br />
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Thanks for stopping by and if you have any comments questions please leave below!<br />
<br />SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-2042490901835880702013-06-30T05:02:00.001-07:002013-06-30T05:03:17.215-07:00WWPD Operation Overlord Campaign Game "Seize and Hold"The guys at <a href="http://www.wwpd.net/" target="_blank">WWPD</a> have launched a new worldwide multiplayer interactive campaign for <a href="http://overlord.wwpd.net/" target="_blank">Operation Overlord.</a>..so you KNOW me and my buddy Michael had to get involved. The campaign is similar to their "Operation Sealion" campaign where players individual games are reported and the results of that battle are complied with the results of other players around the world who fought in that location to determine the results and which sides controls that location.<br />
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This year the theme was Operation Overlord....Normandy 1944. The first round of Overlord simulated either the airborne drops or the beach assault. In our game Michael chose his 101st Airborne and I chose a German Fusilier Kompanie...and the mission was "Seize and Hold."<br />
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In Seize and Hold the defender (me in this case) set up on board with half their force waiting for an attack that can come from any direction as all reserves come in as scattered reserves, except the airborne player has a better chance of getting his reserves where his pathfinder is located. The mission starts at night and players roll starting on turn 3 for the dawn to break. Objectives go live on turn 6. Our map represented a small little village just behind Omaha beach, that the Americans had to gain control of to allow the beach forces to move freely inland. We had a small little village pretty much center of the table that had some rubble (damage from pre-drop bombardments).<br />
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<strong>Germans:</strong> <strong> US:</strong><br />
3 Fusiler Plts 3 Para Inf Plts<br />
1 HMG Plt 1 LMG Plt<br />
1 Plt StuGs 1 Glider Recce (Jeeps w/MGs) Plt<br />
1 Battery 150mm Arty 1 Battery 105mm Glider Arty <br />
1 Plt 150mm Infantry Guns 1 Plt Glider Mortars<br />
1 Mortar Plt 1 57mm AT Gun Plt<br />
37mm AA Limited P47s <br />
1 Sniper<br />
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As the Germans, I set up my 2 Infantry plts in the village...one guarding each objective and the HMGs in the middle, supporting both platoons. The Americans land to the east of the village and began moving through wheat fields and hedges (not bocage) towards the objective on that side...and one mis-dropped infantry platoon landed on the west side of the village and makes his way towards the village and the objective on THAT side of the village. <br />
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I moved the HMGs to the East to help the platoon on that side as the bulk of his force is coming in there...and his pathfinder is there so he has s greater chance to get troops there. I fight a delaying action with my infantry platoon in the West...just trying to delay the Americans until reserves come on.<br />
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The bulk of the action happened on the East side of the table as my delaying action went very well...pinning the Paras for several turns and preventing them from advancing. In the East however, he was on the objective on Turn 2. The Infantry and HMGs take a few casualties and dish out a few as well. Plan is to wait until turn 3 and pray for reserves before O make a push. On Turn 3 Michael gets his 105s to come in the South East corner...and then I get my StuGs on the same side...and how the Guns are stacked, I can assault and only take Defensive from one gun...ensuring the assault goes through (He could kill 2 tanks and stop the assault). I make a tactical error and only send 2 of the 3 StuGs in the assault with the 3rd assaulting a lone infantry team from the LMG plt (Dumpkopf!). He killed one Stug, and I killed a gun before the Assault peters out (If I went in with all 3 StuGs it would have been much uglier). He gets a 3rd infantry plt coming in on the road in the Northeast corner and advances to the East objective....Looking grim. <br />
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I then get my last Infantry platoon to come in right behind his on the road (popular road)... and they kill his platoon...only to be killed by his Recce jeeps on the next turn how came blazing up the same road (a pattern in games I have with Michael). with that, I don't have enough to push Michal off of the objective.<br />
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A close fought 5-2 victory for the Allies. We loved the "Seize and Hold" mission and look forward to trying it again.<br />
<br />SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-277562249396343172013-06-24T04:25:00.002-07:002013-06-24T04:25:55.609-07:00German PzIVH Platoon #2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Continuing to post pictures of the rest of my Germans that have managed to escape the grip of my total obsession of posting pictures of all my models......my 2nd PzIVH Platoon.<br />
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You can see the <a href="http://journeybacktothetable.blogspot.com/2013/05/german-pzivh-command.html" target="_blank">Command Section</a> and the <a href="http://journeybacktothetable.blogspot.com/2012/04/pzivh-platoon.html" target="_blank">1st Platoon</a> elsewhere on my blog (although I have rebased the 1st Platoon since these pictures were taken)<br />
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Platoon Leader:<br />
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1st Section:</div>
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2nd Section:</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Field Repair on Tank 125 (broke left front corner of turret Schuertzen)</td></tr>
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I painted these exactly the same as my PzIVH Command Section (So the below is a repeat of that process :-) ) <br />
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The exception is on tank 125 where after a few games he sustained some real battle damage and the left front corner of the turret Schuertzen broke off. Whatever was I to do!!!!!! To cover the damage I added a little stowage. I took some aluminum foil and folded several times and cut down to shape...making sure I kept fold lines and areas where edges didn't overlap exactly. Then I painted it a basecoat of Vallejo 830 Field Grey, a wash of 979 German Camo Dark Green, a highlight of a mix of 886 Green Grey and 830 Field Grey and a final highlight of just 886 Green Grey. Looks like a piece of tarp lying on the turret and covers that missing section quite well...thank God!<br />
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The vehicles were all airbrushed with Vallejo Middlestone (882) as a base color and then stripes of Reflective Green (890) were added by hand. I was still new at airbrushing when I did these and wasn't comfortable with airbrushing the green lines at that point. The tracks were painted 950 Black and then a heavy drybrush of 982 Cavalry Brown with a final light drybrush of 863 Gunmetal Grey and a #2 pencil. Then I gloss coated the model, applied decals and a pin wash to bring our the models' details, a little touch up where the pinwash was too heavy and then flat matte coated the model.<br />
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I used MIG pigments for the dirty look. When you layer pigments start with the lighter color first as it represents the dried dirt...darker, wetter colors are always on the top and towards the bottom. I applied MIG Pigments to the lower hull using a MIG Fixer and then MIG Europe Dust P028 pigment. When that dried, I started to apply Track Brown (P414) below and on top of the Europe Dust pigment...and heavy in the tracks. This is all the freshly chewed up earth that hasn't had a chance t dry and the upper layers is that dirt/mud that has splashed high and dried. Finally, I applied another coat of MIG Fixer over the pigments I had placed earlier to lock them down really good. When that was dry, I gave it a final Flat Matte finish. Don't be alarmed when you apply fixer or varnish and the pigments get all wet and dark...as they dry they will go back to their true color.<br />
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The number decals on the turret were homemade using Testors decal paper. and the crosses are from Battlefront.SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-20235374988102884392013-05-23T04:25:00.000-07:002013-05-23T04:25:42.626-07:00German PzIVH Command<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I did these guys a <em>long</em> time ago, but for some reason I never took pictures of them. Well...that has been rectified!<br />
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I used the same techniques and colors as I did with the past few vehicles. The vehicles were all airbrushed with Vallejo Middlestone (882) as a base color and then stripes of Reflective Green (890) were added by hand. I was still new at airbrushing when I did these and wasn't comfortable with airbrushing the green lines at that point. The flag on the Commander's turret was handpainted using 826 German Camo Medium Brown as a base coat and then 957 Flat Red, 951 White and 950 Black. The tracks were painted 950 Black and then a heavy drybrush of 982 Cavalry Brown with a final light drybrush of 863 Gunmetal Grey and a #2 pencil. Then I gloss coated the model, applied decals and a pin wash to bring our the models' details, a little touch up where the pinwash was too heavy and then flat matte coated the model.<br />
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I used MIG pigments for the dirty look. When you layer pigments start with the lighter color first as it represents the dried dirt...darker, wetter colors are always on the top and towards the bottom. I applied MIG Pigments to the lower hull using a MIG Fixer and then MIG Europe Dust P028 pigment. When that dried, I started to apply Track Brown (P414) below and on top of the Europe Dust pigment...and heavy in the tracks. This is all the freshly chewed up earth that hasn't had a chance t dry and the upper layers is that dirt/mud that has splashed high and dried. Finally, I applied another coat of MIG Fixer over the pigments I had placed earlier to lock them down really good. When that was dry, I gave it a final Flat Matte finish. Don't be alarmed when you apply fixer or varnish and the pigments get all wet and dark...as they dry they will go back to their true color.<br />
<br />
The number decals on the turret were homemade using Testors decal paper. and the crosses are from Battlefront.SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-12210964373972285332013-05-06T04:29:00.000-07:002013-05-06T04:29:52.753-07:00Puma Patrol<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/German%20Pumas/DSCF7511_zpsbf30e234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="297" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/German%20Pumas/DSCF7511_zpsbf30e234.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I have 13 of these bad boys, but only 3 fully painted. The rest all have their basecoat and camo applied...just have to apply the finishing touches. These 3 however were the lucky winners and were part of my list in the tournament last March....so I had to get these guys D-O-N-E!<br />
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I get them all finished and looking purty....only to leave them at home and bring instead 3 of the half painted models.<br />
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I know...I know<br />
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So its long past time for these guys to burst upon the world in all their glory.<br />
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<strong>Puma #1</strong><br />
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<strong>Puma #2:</strong><br />
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<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/German%20Pumas/DSCF7521_zps079ba310.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/German%20Pumas/DSCF7521_zps079ba310.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<strong>Puma #3:</strong><br />
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<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/German%20Pumas/DSCF7530_zps7e996850.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="292" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/German%20Pumas/DSCF7530_zps7e996850.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />
I used the same techniques and colors as I did with the armored AA halftracks. The vehicles were all airbrushed with Vallejo Middlestone (882) as a base color and then stripes of German Camo Medium Brown (826) and Reflective Green (890) were added. I was using my single action airbrush and the stripes were a <em>LITTLE</em> thick, so I had to thin them out by stippling the edges with Middlestone.<br />
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The tires were basecoated 950 black and then lighter colors built up with drybrushing ....first 862 Black Grey 836 London Grey then finally 870 Medium Sea Grey.<br />
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The fuel cans are 830 German Field Grey as basecoat, 979 German Camo Dark Green as a 1:8 wash and then a mix of 830 German Feldgrau and 886 Green Grey at 1:5 as a hi lite. On one Puma I added an extra can I had left over in my bit bucket.<br />
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The number decals on the turret were homemade using Testors decal paper. I couldn't get a nice single number from the Testors sheets to go on the door behind each front wheel. So I ended up hand painting those.<br />
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They are <em><strong>A LOT</strong></em> of fun to play with just one patrol of 3 Pumas....excited to try 13 of them on the field at once. Maybe..one day...I can try full the full Monty of 19 Pumas!SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-43409329395459415652013-04-23T04:27:00.002-07:002013-04-23T04:27:42.583-07:00German 20mm AA Armored Halftrack Platoon<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/German%20Armored%2020mm/DSCF7460_zps86d1720f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="235" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/German%20Armored%2020mm/DSCF7460_zps86d1720f.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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As I mentioned in the last blog post, we had a 2000 pt Flames of War Late War tournament in Mid March and I was going
to run Germans...and that I was undecided as to which list I was going to
run. I was split between Quad 20mm Armored halftracks or the single 20mm armored halftrack. Well, this week I get to share the option I did not choose...the 20mm AA Armored halftrack platoon.<br />
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These too are Battlefront models and again I love how they
look. They had very little flash on the vehicle and crew to deal. Assembling the guns was much easier (as their is only one and not 4 as in the Quad 20mm); but I did have an issue with one of the tracks on one of the vehicles. It wasn't really a miscast, just all the flash that wasn't on the other figures was on this one track. Easily overcome though.<br />
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<strong>1st Gun Section</strong><br />
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<strong>2nd Gun Section</strong><br />
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<strong>3rd Gun Section</strong><br />
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<br />
The standing gun crew members were pinned in place with a little piece of piano wire drilled in one of their feet.<br />
<br />
I used the same techniques and colors as I did with the Quad 20mm tracks. The vehicles were all airbrushed with Vallejo Middlestone (882) as a base color
and then stripes of German Camo Medium Brown (826) and Reflective Green (890)
were added. I was using my single action airbrush and the stripes were a
<em>LITTLE</em> thick, so I had to thin them out by stippling the edges with
Middlestone.<br />
<br />
The tracks were basecoated in Vallejo Black (950) and then
heavy dry brushed in Cavalry Brown (982) with a final highlight of Gunmetal Grey
(863) and a #2 pencil.<br />
<br />
Even though I didn't use these in the actual tournament, I did use them in a few warm up games prior and they were effective for the points, but I had enough points in my list and could afford the Quads for the tournament...so they won out.SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-65569928325857407242013-04-03T04:45:00.002-07:002013-04-06T07:08:17.405-07:00German Armored Quad 20mm Anticraft Guns<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/German%20Armored%20Quad%2020mm/DSCF7436_zps0599b209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="172" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Journey%20Back%20to%20Table/German%20Armored%20Quad%2020mm/DSCF7436_zps0599b209.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<br />
<br />
We had a 2000 pt Flames of War Late War tournament in Mid March and I was going to run Germans...but had a load of painting I had to get done to be able to field a good force. Add to that I was undecided as to which list I was going to run...so I had to paint several extra units to be covered...just in case.<br />
<br />
One thing I knew I needed regardless of the list was a good platoon of Anti-craft guns. I already had the Armored Quad 20mm tracks in the painting cue, but hadn't gotten around to them yet. Well their number got called and they moved up the ranks.<br />
<br />
These are Battlefront models and I love how they look. I had very little flash on the vehicle and crew to deal with. Putting them together was a bit of a challenge though. The guns and gun shield were uncooperative at times...but they finally saw who was boss and relented ;-)<br />
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<strong>Gun 1</strong><br />
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<strong>Gun 2</strong><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><strong>Gun 3</strong></div><br />
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<br />
The vehicles were all airbrushed with Vallejo Middlestone (882) as a base color and then stripes of German Camo Medium Brown (826) and Reflective Green (890) were added. I was using my single action airbrush and the stripes were a <em>LITTLE</em> thick, so I had to thin them out by stippling the edges with Middlestone.<br />
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The tracks were basecoated in Vallejo Black (950) and then heavy dry brushed in Cavalry Brown (982) with a final highlight of Gunmetal Grey (863) and a #2 pencil.<br />
<br />
The crew were painted using my paint plan for SS Wikings posted under my <a href="http://journeybacktothetable.blogspot.com/2012/04/joy-of-painting-miniatures-paint-plans.html" target="_blank">Painting Plans</a> post. I went with the plan Feldgrau look as opposed to any camo as the figures didn't have camo smocks.<br />
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I did do a head swap for the gunner on Gun #3 to add a little variety to the unit.<br />
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They did well in the tournament knocking down a few enemy planes in the process<br />
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SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-89826597881279274092013-04-02T04:47:00.002-07:002013-04-02T04:47:57.525-07:00SlackingI realize that I have been slacking on updating the blog...I blame the WWPD guys getting people into the Online game "Eve"<br />
<br />
I mean Scordite cant mine itself right? <strong>Right?!?!?!?!</strong><br />
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<strong><em>AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!</em></strong><br />
<br />
But rest assured...I haven't stopped painting or anything. I have still been painting as always...just my online time was consumed with Eve.<br />
<br />
Over the next few months I will be posting up what I have been working on as well as some units I realized I hadn't posted before.<br />
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I will also start a thread on my thoughts as I work on making a Market Garden Campaign for my local group.<br />
<br />
And my World War 2 focus will expand to include Battlefront's latest release Tour of Duty which covers Vietnam. Suffice it to say they got Nam right this go around. The games are a blast...and I am playing the NVA!!! It is very cinematic...think <em>"We were Soldiers Once, and Young..."</em> but on the tabletop.<br />
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More of the good stuff in a week or so. Thanks for sticking with meSonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-65555551591488446402013-02-08T03:27:00.002-08:002013-02-08T03:27:20.836-08:00Treelines<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
As part of the preparation for the Frontal Assault Tournment in Huntsville, Alabama on 16 Feb 13, I had to make 24 feet of treelines. Not to self...when designing tables be aware of what you are signing up for if you have to buy/make terrain.<br />
<br />
To steal a line from Oddball from Kelly's Heroes as he was trying ot get some bridging support....."24 feet of treeline...I can get that anywhere."<br />
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Well, reality hit me. 24 feet of treeline...how to do this.<br />
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Well, to give a little flexibility it would be nice to have 6 inch long sections. <br />
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Now I have to build at least 48 sections to meet the requirement. <em>GULP</em>!!!!<br />
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First it would be nice to know what treelines actually look like. In Europe, you find these along many roads and rivers:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.f1online.de/premid/002073000/2073047.jpg"><em>http://www.f1online.de/premid/002073000/2073047.jpg</em></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Ok, so we have tall skinny trees in a line. Having a stick with clump foilage stuck to it and trimmed to shape would work. Now I am cheap...what is about the cheapest stick you can find?<br />
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Q-tips is what I came up with...and I only needed part of a $3 box! I used the cardboard stick ones, not the plastic ones. I found the plastic ones too flimsy. you would be surprised at how strong theses paper sticks are. Just cut the ends with cotton off of both ends and keep the middle piece. Peel off as much of the cotton that might still be on the stick as you can.<br />
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Now we need a base for the trees to sit. I had some Basswood and Birch boards laying around from another project. I then cut them into 6 in x 1 in lengths. I ended up with 52 bases. Always good to have a few extra. The birch wood is thinner and looks better IMHO.<br />
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Next, I used hot glue to affix the sticks to the bases. 4 sticks per base, evenly spaced gives a nice impression of the treelines in the picture above. The little mound of glue at the bottom might look a little wierd right now, but wait till it gets painted.<br />
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Next step is to begin to landscape the base. You could use pumice, but that is too expensive. Sand or Woodland Scenics Ballast is a good solution. Glue the sand/ballast down and once dry paint the base and trees a good dark brown.<br />
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Next hi-light the dirt with a lighter brown. Finally add the flock and build up the grassy areas. <br />
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Get your wife to help if you can...<br />
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Next is to turn those sticks into trees. This is simple...glue clump foilage to the sticks and once dry trim to ge the tall skinny tree look. I used hot glue to stick the big pieces and then foam safe super glue for smaller pieces.<br />
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Add a few bushes inbetween the trees for flavor.<br />
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The last step is to seal the clump foilage with Matte medium...or a cheaper alternative of watered down Elmer's Glue (PVA Glue). I have heard that Elmer's will yellow over time (several years maybe), so keep that in mind. If you only plan on these lasting a few years, then Elmer's is a cost savings alternative.<br />
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The end result 26 feet of treeline!!!!<br />
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So what did it cost for 26 feet of Treeline:<br />
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Birch board (24"x12"x1/8"): $7<br />
Basswood (36"x3"x1/8"): $3<br />
Foam Safe Super Glue: $12<br />
Elmers Glue: $3<br />
Clump Foilage (5 bags) $9 ea<br />
Woodland Scenics Ballast Grey Fine: $13<br />
Hot glue sticks: $10<br />
Craft Paint: $6<br />
Q-tips: $3<br />
Total: $102 <br />
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If I used Matte Medium the total would be $109<br />
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Woodland Scenic Matte Medium 16 oz (Prepared): $4.98 (would have needed 2-3<br />
bottles)<br />
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I didnt use up all the Ballast, Super glue, hot glue sticks, or paint. Only the ballast would last through 1, maybe 2 more, sets fo 26 feet of treeline.<br />
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And it took roughly a 2 weeks to make everything if you include the drying time of teh matte medium/Elmer's glue. A worthwhile investment for some cool terrain to add to teh table.SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-77575248073306953442013-01-08T04:43:00.001-08:002013-01-08T04:43:29.257-08:00Building Buildings for 15mm Games on the Cheap<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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As part of the prep for the Flames of War tournament we are having in Huntsville, Alabama on 16 Feb 13 I we had to either make or buy 6 Italian style buildings and 3 stone bridges. If we were to buy that for say $25 for 2 buildings and at least $10 per stone bridge we would be talking at least $100 we would have to spend....in addition to the other items on our "Make or Buy" list. <br />
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A buddy of mine who is new to Flames of War just happened to show me some buildings he made for his Napoleonics game using Mat board (the stiff board used in frame that gives you a colored "inner" frame within the frame). These were pretty slick. Then it got me thinking...Maybe I could do that for these Italian buildings and bridges.<br />
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So what would I need:<br />
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- A Plan<br />
- Matboard<br />
- <em>SHARP</em> Hobby Knife<br />
- Hot glue gun and glue sticks<br />
- Waterproof Micron pens<br />
- Paint in various colors<br />
- Superglue (Zap-A-Gap)<br />
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I had pretty much all of these supplies on hand except for a a few certain paint colors I was able to make 8 buildings and 4 bridges for under $10 and about 3 weeks of my time (off and on a few hours a day). If you have to buy a 32"x40" matboard you can find these for under $10....so 8 Buildings, 4 Bridges for 20% of the price!<br />
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<strong>Plan:</strong><br />
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You need to do a little research if you don't want to do a standard square house.<br />
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I based my Italian houses of off some JR Miniatures houses and some real life street scenes I found on the Internet.<br />
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Then you break the house into floors and each floor into the sides. In the picture above if you look at the level that is on the upper right corner of the concept picture you will see the sides that come into a point to support the roof.<br />
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As you make your plan, make sure you include the dimensions for the figures that will fit inside. For these, I planned to have 2 medium sized Infantry Bases to fit into each level.<br />
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Once you have the base side down, cut out the pieces the you need and do a "semi- dry fit" where you use tape to hold the pieces together.<br />
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If all is well, take the pieces apart and use these as templates for the rest of the pieces you will need.<br />
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Special note on the roofs...The "Triangle" roof is the simplest. It is just 2 pieces slightly longer and wider than the floor. I just eyeballed the slope so I didn't have <em>TOO</em> much of the roof overhanging the sides of the building. When you cut the supports they .... Glue them into place close to the ends, but not at the edge. They need to be just inside the wall to help prevent the roof from sliding off side to side.<br />
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The "Square" roof is a little trickier. The Square Roofs fit on a flat square section, whereas the Triangle Roofs need the end piece of the floor level to be pointed. Cut out the sections and when you assemble them start with the trapezoid (long) sections first and then glue the triangle end pieces on. When you glue the end pieces, line the piece up so the base is level with the edge of the long sections. You most likely will have "overlap" along the edges to the top point, but don't worry you can just trim that up with your hobby knife. Then glue to supports along the center seam.<br />
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The last step is to cut a square a little smaller in width and length than the floor section and glue this in the center of each level, except the ground level. These help keep the upper levels from sliding foo the lower level.<br />
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Bridges are similar. You have the 2 sides, an upper road section, and 2 ramp sections. When you construct the bridge start by tacking (using just a little glue) the upper road section on to one of the side sections and then glue the end ramps. It takes a little fiddling to make sure everything lives up level and straight. The last step is to glue on the other side section so it is level. Since you tacked the pieces in place, you can slide them around a little. Once all is in place, lay a nice solid bead of super glue along the seams to hold it all in place.<br />
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The next step is to lay a bead of hot glue along the edges and seams. On the roofs, this will be the capping level of tiles on the tile roof and for the building levels and bridges it is the decorative brick/stone edging.</div>
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Next is to paint in whatever you color scheme you have chosen, to include any shading and highlighting. You also paint in all the windows and decorative art (window boxes, flowers, etc...). And don't forget to paint the inside...floors, windows, doors, etc... This helps make it readily apparent where the openings are just by looking at the inside.</div>
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A word on openings. In Flames of War, units can only attack and be attacked through an opening. Most buildings for sale have openings on all sides. I built these intentionally to have some levels that did not have openings (windows) on the ends. This creates a few tactical challenges for the player now...which could be overcome by using the "Loopholes" rule on page 108 in the V3 Rulebook. This allows a player in the building to to make a Skill Check (just like "Digging In") and allows that team to be able to shoot (and be shot) through all sides it is adjacent to as long as that team is there. It can not be assaulted through the loophole. Now, just think of the tactical challenges this present to the attacker and defender!</div>
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The final step is the most time consuming...using the Waterproof Micron pens to make draw in the tiles, bricks, stones, cobblestones. Waterproof pen is vital. If you don't use one, a drop of water could cause the ink to run. I made this mistake and didn't discover it until I was about 25% done. :-(</div>
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After the Micron pen work is dos finished you are technically done. You could add propaganda posters if you wish and if you used Waterproof pens you could matte varnish your work to protect it.</div>
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<img height="72" src="http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n79/SonBae/Blog/Building%20Houses/DSCF6940_zps67a8a755.jpg" style="filter: alpha(opacity=30); left: 300px; opacity: 0.3; position: absolute; top: 4866px;" width="96" />That's all there is to it. I am going to try and build a larger "L" shaped building and another with an arch next, Will keep you posted!<br />
<br />SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-14938264032550621802012-11-28T02:35:00.000-08:002012-11-28T02:35:11.163-08:00German Panzerwerfer 42 Battery<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've had my Panzerwerfer 42 battery for Flames of War in the queue for a while now, but with the recent commission jobs I had these guys had to go on the back burner so to speak. But then, as so happens in life, several things happened at the same time. First, I finished the models I had for both commission jobs and had time to paint some of my stuff. Second, the Devastating Bombardment Template I have had on order for <em>months</em> finally came in. That gave me the motivation to kick the battery into high gear.<br />
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And man, am I glad...this battery is ever so nice.<br />
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What am I talking about? The Panzerwerfer 42 was an armored mobile rocket launcher the Germans used late in World War 2. For Flames of War, the Panzerwerfer Battery looks like this :<br />
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In game terms, it can kick butt With 8 launchers I can use the Devastating Bombardment template which is 4 times the size of the the standard artillery template and make the opponent reroll any saves he makes!<br />
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Without further ado...the battery:<br />
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Battery Commander:<br />
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Forward Observer, 1st Platoon:</div>
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Forward Observer, 2nd Platoon:<br />
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The launchers are the same in both platoons, so I will so pics for just 1 Platoon:<br />
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Love this box set. The launchers are great sculps and you have very dynamic poses with the guys on the launchers. The troops on the ground are the same ones from the Nebelwerfer platoons...its the same rocket after all on the Panzerwerfer.<br />
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The models are very quick to paint up. I used my standard German paint jobs for the crew and airbrushed the vehicles.<br />
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I cant wait to get these guys on the table!<br />
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SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-74662822261633431312012-11-07T04:54:00.002-08:002012-11-07T04:54:10.088-08:00Making Antennas --- A RelookI made a video a few months ago on how to make and add antennas to your Flames of War 15mm models. <br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/Imn3UeH-2Wo?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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This method is great for a sturdy antenna...there is one LITTLE drawback to using wire however. If you aren't careful, you can injure yourself. Since you built the model (and probably already stuck yourself once (or twice...OK maybe 4 times), you are careful and avoid sticking yourself again. <br />
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This becomes more of an issue if you let someone <em>else</em> use your models... in lets say a demo or teaching game and they weren't aware of the dangers of the wire....until they stick themselves.<br />
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Well...this happened to me recently as I was giving a demo at my FLGS to a friend from work...and he stuck himself on the antenna on one of my PzIVs. He was a trooper and soldiered on...in fact, he kicked total butt because his blood sacrifice to the Dice Gods must have been accepted as worthy. I have never seen so many 5's and 6's in game before.<br />
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Anyways, I wanted to prevent this from happening again...to others...and to me :-)<br />
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I started thinking and I saw that some folks used very thin fishing line or even bristles from a hair brush. Those just didn't fit what I was looking for as they can tend to be too thick. Then I remembered a technique I learned when doing 1:35 scale models. You take a spare plastic sprue, melt it in the middle and stretch it to your desired thickness. Works like a champ.<br />
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So I did another quick video showing this technique.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/tbjV9ucl5pk?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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One great thing about this technique is that it is cheap. Almost all the Flames of War models come with plastic parts...and that means sprues you can use for antennas. So make a batch of antennas from every sprue you have and you will never run out for your needs.</div>
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Off to swap all my metals antennas with the plastic ones now.</div>
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Hope this helps....and get out there and paint some models!</div>
SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-44844866226509163262012-10-20T06:16:00.000-07:002012-10-20T06:16:54.289-07:00Making a Display Board<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Had a team tourney recently and I need a good carrying board to hold my troops that I was going to use for the tournament....and I needed to make it look good to enhance my troops for the painting competition.<br />
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Why did I need the board? The main reason was to speed up play. By having the troops I would need for the tourney out...for the entire tournament...I don't have to keep digging into my carrying case, taking out the foam trays to get to all the troops I would need...slowing down each games' setup. This also saves valuable space in and around the table.<br />
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Now, I could have just gone with a simple plastic storage bin lid or something similar...cheap and effective...but not that pretty. Making the board a display board with terrain really makes the unit <strong><em>POP</em></strong>!<br />
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So, how to do this…<br />
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Materials:<br />
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- 17"x 23" Cork Bulletin Board with wood sides<br />
- Spackle<br />
- Corrugated cardboard pieces<br />
- Vallejo Pumice<br />
- Golden Pumice<br />
- Loose Gravel<br />
- Woodland Scenics Fine Flock (different colors)<br />
- Woodland Scenics Coarse Flock (different colors)<br />
- Woodland Scenics Clump Foliage (different colors)<br />
- Woodland Scenics Ballast (very fine/small rocks)<br />
- Silfor tufts (4mm and 6mm)<br />
- Army Painter Meadow Flowers<br />
- Matte Medium/Flock sealant<br />
- Elmer's Glue<br />
- Hot Glue Gun <br />
- Cheap Acrylic Craft Paints (Americana series)<br />
- Spray Can Gloss Varnish<br />
- Spray Can Black Lacquer<br />
- Sandpaper<br />
<br />
<strong>Step 1 Have a vision</strong><br />
<br />
- To make the board look realistic, you have to have a vision. Inspiration can come from many sources...look at pictures, really good game tables with lots of terrain, etc... <br />
- Now, take that overall and pick a section that will fit your board area<br />
- I wanted to have a road with a hedgerow on the side separating the road from some fields that were separated by a stone wall. The other side of the road was to be an open field. This was mainly to allow me to try multiple terrain building techniques I have been waiting to try...Thanks to <a href="http://theterrainstudio.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Sean Morris</a> (The Terrain Guy) for giving me the bug ;-)<br />
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<strong>Step 2 Have a plan</strong><br />
<br />
- You have to have a plan..otherwise you will waste time repeating things as you have to fix areas messed up by doing a step "out of order."<br />
- My advice...build up and out<br />
- Build the lower levels first and build upon that foundation<br />
- Build from the center and then out<br />
- With that vision in mind, break components down into levels and sections to facilitate the "build up and out."<br />
- Write the plan down as a blue print! If you keep it all in your head you are bound to forget something and miss a step and have to repeat steps to add it back in.<br />
- As you build, use models of the appropriate size to make sure your scale is correct. Nothing worse than building a board for 15mm and things are sized too big or too small. That disparity works against you and diminishes the excellence of your paint job you built the board to enhance in the first place.<br />
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<strong>Step 3 Seal the Board</strong><br />
<br />
- I choose a cork board because it was cheap ($5). You could choose a dry erase board but they are more expensive (at least 2-3 times more). If you did choose a dry erase board I would "rough up" the surface first with sandpaper and steel wool to help the materials adhere better then follow the rest of the steps for sealing below.<br />
- You will be dealing with a lot of materials that are wet when you apply them. To make sure the cork and cardboard of the bulletin don't lose their integrity you should protect them from water. Here is where the gloss varnish and black lacquer comes in handy.<br />
- I didn't think the pale wood color of the bulletin board fit the image I wanted to display for the board so I sprayed the edges a nice black lacquer to give it nice look and to set off the terrain in the middle.<br />
- Next spray the entire board (the edges, the front and the back) with gloss varnish. This will give a nice surface for the all the terrain to adhere to and protect the cork from moisture during the build process.<br />
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<strong>Step 4 Let there be... ground!</strong><br />
<br />
- Take your Spackle and spread it out over the board. This is the base ground level from which everything will be built. You can add textures here and there to give the ground "life" and make it look more realistic...you don't want it totally smooth. <br />
- Be careful not to get it on your freshly painted black frame. If you do, simply wipe it away with a damp cloth. The extra gloss varnish you used on the frame helps protect it from little “accidents” like this.<br />
- Now sand the Spackle down to knock down those nasty ripples or "overhang" spikes that tend to form when you add Spackle to the board. Again, you don't want to make it perfectly smooth...leave little raises and dips.<br />
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<strong>Step 5 On the Road again.....Add the road</strong><br />
<br />
- The road I wanted bisects the board, so following the "build up and out" we need to start with the road in the center <br />
- Here I used a mix of the Golden Artist Pumice and Vallejo's White Pumice to get a nice gritty rough goo...spread this out in the shape of the road. The bend in the road is to add a little character.<br />
- Next, to make this look like a road you need to add tire tracks. This road is just a little larger a one lane road and a little smaller than a 2 lane road, so I added 3 paths for the tires (one vehicle gets a little out of the way). To make these just take the end of a paint brush and drag it along the path where the tires would travel. Make sure you take the excess off of the paintbrush as it builds up. Use a model to verify the wide of the tracks. If you are off....just smooth the road back out and do it again.<br />
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<strong>Step 6 Add the Height</strong><br />
<br />
- I said that I wanted some hedges and a wall. To build these and add a little vertical dimension to the board I used Spackle again. <br />
- This time instead of flattening the Spackle out, I left it in a rough mound shape where I wanted the hedge and wall to be placed. This mound will the base where I will add the clump foliage for the hedge and rocks for the stone wall.<br />
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<strong>Step 7 Add the fields</strong><br />
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- Plowed fields have nice rows....just like corrugated cardboard. <br />
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- Cut the cardboard into the shapes you want<br />
- Take your cardboard and CAREFULLY peel one side of the backing off, leaving the nice bumpy rows.<br />
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- Peel off the nasty little pieces of cardboard that like to stay stuck and make it look as clean as possible.<br />
- Paint BOTH sides of the card board with acrylic paint. It is important to do both sides. This will minimize any warping the cardboard will do as the paint dries.<br />
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<strong>Step 8 Plow the fields</strong><br />
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- The plain cardboard is a little too smooth and doesn't look like dirt<br />
- Spread a thin coat of PVA glue across the cardboard. <br />
- Sprinkle the Ballast on the fields. You could use Pumice, but the Ballast is mucgh cheaper.<br />
- Shake off the excess<br />
- Now we have the dirty texture to look like loose earth<br />
- After the glue dries, glue the cardboard pieces into place with Elmer's (PVA) glue.<br />
- Use pumice to blend the cardboard into the rest of the board and go around all the edges taking special care to cover up the "tunnels" where each row opens up.<br />
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<strong>Step 9 Add Color.</strong><br />
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- Use your craft paint and paint the ground, road and fields using whatever color scheme you want<br />
- Start with Americana Dark Chocolate<br />
- Then I used a black wash to add depth<br />
- Finally, I used Americana Sable Brown as a highlight and Vallejo USA Tan Earth as a "Super Highlight."<br />
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<strong>Step 10 Get the Flock outta here....</strong><br />
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- Add your flock to where ever you want grassy fields. I used my <a href="http://journeybacktothetable.blogspot.com/2012/02/basing.html" target="_blank">3 level flock process</a> (Soil, Turf, Grass). <br />
- Doing this now, allows you shake off excess without getting flock all mixed up on your walls and hedges (I had built my wall prior and had some cleanup to do taking flock off of the rocks)<br />
- Seal each layer with matte medium<br />
- I also wanted to try out some flowers in the open field and used the Woodland Scenics Flowers. This looks like Steel Wool with colored specks on it. You are supposed to pull it and spread it out on the board. It just didn't look right doing it that way. The "specks" flake off very easy in the bag the flowers come in. I ended up collecting as much of the specks as I could (helping the process where I could by knocking off as much as possible) and then just sprinkled the flowers where I thought they would be....along the hedges and road and in patches in the meadow.<br />
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<strong>Step 11 I wanna rock!!!!</strong><br />
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- Add PVA glue over the Spackle mound base where the wall is. Put it on rather heavy, but not to the point where it is running over the surrounding area.<br />
- Build the wall by add the rocks over the glue.<br />
- When the glue has dry add more Matte medium to seal the in place.<br />
- When the Matte medium is dry, paint them. I used American Lamp Black (Ebony) as a base, then American Neutral Gray, a heavy black wash, followed by a mix of the American Neutral Grey and Vallejo 989 Sky Grey and finally the 989 Sky Grey by itself.<br />
- Apply varnish (Gloss and then matte) with a brush; being careful not to drip on the flocked surface.<br />
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<strong>Step 12 Bring us…a Shrubbery!</strong><br />
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<br />
- Ni...Ni...NiNi Ni<br />
- Now is the time for the Hot Glue Gun. Get a little bowl or dish and pour out a mix of the 3 clump foliage colors (Light/Medium/Dark Green).<br />
- Break the clumps down into pieces no bigger than you thumbnail.<br />
- Apply a bead of hot glue about 2-3" long along the outer bottom of the Hedge base<br />
- Pick some clump foliage from your mix at random and apply to the glue. Press the clumps into the glue and hold for a few seconds. You need to be quick and apply the foliage before the glue dries, and careful enough not to burn yourself.<br />
- Continue with the glue and foliage along on base and when you reach the end repeat the process on the other side of the hedge at the base.<br />
- When both sides have been completed; repeat the process on the top. <br />
- If you have any gaps in coverage...plug them. If you use the Hot Glue Gun be careful of creating "strings/webs." I used PVA glue to plug the few holes I had with clump foliage…didn’t want to risk hot glue “strings” getting over the surrounding clumps.<br />
- Once all the glue is dry, <em>SOAK</em> and I mean <em><strong>SOAK</strong></em> all the clump foliage with Matte Medium. When dry it will protect the foliage from flaking off.<br />
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<strong>Step 13 Plant Your Field</strong><br />
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- 2 ways to plant your crops.<br />
- Fuller mature veggies (like in the picture above)<br />
- Take scrap pieces of your clump foliage or coarse flock and glue to the top of each row in a checkerboard fashion<br />
- Very time consuming but gives a nice look of a lettuce or broccoli patch<br />
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- For crops just coming out of the ground (above)<br />
- Glue random dots of PVA glue on the tops of the rows<br />
- Sprinkle scraps of clump foliage or coarse flock over the piece<br />
- Press everything down. You can use your hand or a scrap piece of cardboard to assist<br />
- When dry, shake of excess, clean out the valleys of any flock and trim any excess off with scissors<br />
- This is a little quicker, but gives a very haphazard look.<br />
- Apply a coat of Matte MEdium making sure the veggies get good and wet.<br />
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There you go. <br />
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The board looked great...did great at the tournament and helped me and my partner get the highest Best Painted Army scores. In total, it took about a week...working on it off and on for about 30-60 minutes a shot each day. Honest Luke and Steve…it was only during times something was drying on the commission jobs I am doing for you :-). The best part is that out of pocket costs were roughly $25 I used a lot of items I had laying around for the basing of my miniatures anyways (flock, foliage, Pumice, paint, etc...). The biggest cost items where the bulletin board itself, the Matte Medium, and the Spackle.<br />
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I am trying to fiddle with the board and figure how I can best add some storage underneath. This way I can have my rulebook and Army list and templates all right at hand and don’t have to have them scattered around (or heaven forbid on the actual game table!). I have a few ideas…just have to play with how to strengthen the board in the middle. <br />
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More to follow as it develops!<br />
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Have you made a display board...do you use them? As Ferris Bueller said "It is so <strong>choice</strong>. If you have the means, I highly <strong>recommend</strong> picking one up."SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-16534413877433058112012-09-26T01:03:00.000-07:002012-09-26T01:03:40.663-07:00German Stuka<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The last of the 3 planes I recently completed was the workhorse of German Close Air Support-----The Stuka. <br />
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I got this baby during the "Great Plane Swap" at WWPD where folks were selling off their "extra" 2 planes that came in a 3 pack box since the new Version 3 rules for Flames of War chnaged the rule so that now you only need one model and a die to represent the flight of up to 3 planes versus the V2 method of having a model for each plane in the flight.<br />
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This puppy is geared up for action with the wing mounted cannons and bombs...ready to make mincemeat of anything foolish to get in it's sights. MuWuhahahahahahaha<br />
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This plane came to me alrready primed so the initial prep work was already for me. Remember, these planes are not easy to paint. The resin they are made of is <em>VERY</em> slick and does not hold paint well. You <strong>HAVE</strong> to make sure that you wash the model thoroughly with soapy water and then "rough" it up with super super fine sandpaper (something like 1000 grit or higher). Then you have to use a TRUE primer (not just an undercoat). You need to be careful as the detail is very shallow. Spraycan primers can go on very heavy and if you aren't careful you clog up that detail.<br />
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I used the same color scheme ...as well as some leftover decals...from the HS129B3.<br />
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830 Field Grey ------ Base top<br />
890 Reflective Green ----- Camo Spotches Top<br />
907 Pale Grey Blue -------Underside<br />
950 Black --- Window Base<br />
964 Field Blue-------- Window reflection squiggles<br />
977 Desert Yellow ---- Base for yellow stripe and wingtips<br />
Testors Yellow Zinc Chromate --- Yellow Stripe and wingtips<br />
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Paint Tip: Painting "Yellow" can be tricky. If you lay down a brown color first (I used 977 Desert Yellow), "Yellow" goes down much easier on top of the brown base. Other wise you will be laying down 4-5 fairly heavy coats of "Yellow" to build it up to the right shade....and each layer fills in detail.<br />
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<br />SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-62042599453360971542012-09-17T03:35:00.001-07:002012-09-26T01:04:02.528-07:00German HS-129B3<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Back again with a weekly update. This time its the German HS-129B3 I was able to get done in between commissions. I love this plane. It not only looks mean, but it can a mess of enemy armor into squashed tin cans. It mounts a 75mm autocannon of all things....going against side armor? YIKES!<br />
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This bad boy is perfect for my East Front armies.<br />
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Again, these planes are still not easy to paint. The resin they are made of is <em>VERY</em> slick and does not hold paint well. You HAVE to make sure that you wash the model thoroughly with soapy water and then "rough" it up with super super fine sandpaper (something like 1000 grit or higher). Then you have to use a TRUE primer (not just an undercoat). You need to be careful as the detail is very shallow. Spraycan primers can go on very heavy and if you aren't careful you clog up that detail.<br />
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So here is what I did:<br />
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830 Field Grey ------ Base top<br />
890 Reflective Green ----- Camo Spotches Top<br />
907 Pale Grey Blue -------Underside<br />
950 Black --- Window Base<br />
964 Field Blue-------- Window reflection squiggles<br />
977 Desert Yellow ---- Base for yellow stripe and nose<br />
Testors Yellow Zinc Chromate --- Yellow Stripe and Nose<br />
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Paint Tip: Painting "Yellow" can be tricky. If you lay down a brown color (I used 977 Desert Yellow), "Yellow" goes down much easier. Other wise you will be laying down 4-5 fairly heavy coats of "Yellow" to build it up to the right shade....and each layer fills in detail.<br />
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Decals are those supplied in the Battlefront box. The side decals gave me <em>A LOT</em> of trouble They are long and kept wanting to curl up on me....One set actually broke apart into 4 pieces on me. Luckily you have 3 sets of decals on the one transfer sheet....a hold over from when planes came 3 to a box.<br />
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As with the Hurricane IIC, I hand brushed the entire model. Did a gloss coat when finished and did 3 layers of a light pin wash to bring out the panel lines. Then hit it with a flat matte finish to kill the shine.<br />
<br />SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-34912683227910947442012-09-10T03:47:00.000-07:002012-09-10T03:47:03.602-07:00British Hurricane IIc<br />
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Greetings all! Its been a while since I posted some pics of my stuff...but Fear Not!!! I have not stopped painting, just been focusing on some commission pieces that have taken priority over my stuff, and the folks I am doing the work for will be posting MUCH better pics than I do. When they post I will link to their site. Those jobs have been...and still are some interesting pieces.<br />
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So, while I have been waiting for stuff to dry on the commission pieces, I was able to knock out some aircraft. The first I did is for a Mid-War Team tournament where I am running about 1000 points of Brit paras in Italy from the North Africa book. Here I can get a Hurricane IIc...and I just had to . Its ALMOST as good as the Typhoon I get for my Arnhem paras.<br />
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These planes are still a pain to paint. The resin they are made of is VERY slick and does not hold paint well at all. First tip is to wash the model thoroughly with soapy water and then "rough" it up with super super fine sandpaper (something like 1000 grit or higher).<br />
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My color Scheme:<br />
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914 Green Ochre ---- Base color<br />
824 German Camo Orange Ochre ----- 1:8 Wash (paint to water)<br />
989 Sky Grey ---- Underside<br />
875 Beige Brown ---- Camo Splotches<br />
984 Flat Brown ---- Base for Little Red dots by the Cannon and the Nose<br />
957 Flat Red ---- Little dots by the Cannon and the Nose<br />
950 Black ---- Window Base<br />
964 Field Blue ---- Window reflection squiggles<br />
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Decals are those supplied in the Battlefront box.<br />
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I hand brushed the entire model. Did a glos coat when finished and did 3 layers of a light pin wash to bring out the panel lines.<br />
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This should bring some pain in our tournament as it is Limited Air...with 5 dice instead of the Sporadic Air with 3 dice I get with the Typhoon in my Late War list Mwuwahahahahahaha.<br />
SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-23778786673950532452012-08-19T05:27:00.003-07:002012-09-06T04:44:35.611-07:00Malifaux (I know, right?)Well....I got hooked.<br />
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My FLGS (The Foundry in Huntsville, Alabama) had a mini tournament this weekend....but lets rewind a bit for the full story.<br />
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During the Flames of War Tournament last month I organized last month I was talking with Bethany (Store Owners wife and Malifaux aficionado) while the games were going. She mentioned that there was a mini tournament that was noob friendly and that I should come out and play.<br />
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I had always viewed Malifaux as that "Wierd" game (It is a Wyrd game since they are the publishers of it) with really cool models. I have a passing interest in Steam Punk....but Bethany's enthusiasm was infectious and she spurred by interest so that the next week I borrowed a rulebook (Big mistake I know!!!!!!) Add to that the store has made some cool terrain for the game...first off is thier village board:<br />
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Well... I got hooked on the fluff and the weirdness (or wyrdness) of the game made since. The game blends steam punk with daemons with zombies with goblins with cowboys....and soon with martial artists! The mechanics are really slick. No dice...random actions are determined by a deck of cards and deck manipulation is a big part of the game. Each model is a character with special abilities and triggers based on the card suites. Every faction and crew has a very distinct flavor and character. I have to say it was a lot of fun.<br />
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Fast forward to this weekend...the Mini tournament. I learned a lot about running a tournament. Tera (The lead organizer) and Bethany did a great job. The prizes were themed and very slick. There were 3 "qualifying rounds" and the top four of those went to the semi finals and the top two would play a final match on a new board (sewer board) made just for the tournament. The games played also went to Wyrd's Dead Heat campaign.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sewer Board</td></tr>
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Well, suffice to say I was nervous. This was my first tournament playing since 1990 (Yes I am an old fart). I ran the Perdita Ortega crew...a cowboy themed crew with a hot chick leading her family. Lots of shootie goodness. <br />
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My first game was against Alex and a Seamus crew (Think undead pimp and hooker zombies). Great opponent and surprise surprise...I won. It boiled down to an initiative flip. Who one that flip would get first action and have the first chance to win...I got the initiative and won my attack.<br />
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My Second game was against Angel...she ran a Victoria's crew. Think steam punk street gang lead by twin girls with swords...but are they <em>REALLY</em> twins? She was a lot of fun to play against and it was another close one. Malifaux is all about your missions...not necessarily killing the other crew. This mission was "Destroy the Evidence" where there are 3 objectives on my side that she has to destroy, 3 on her side for me and one in the middle for both of us. she got the middle on and the 2 closest in my side <em>REAL</em> quick and I thought that was it. But we still had 4 turns for sure (game ends at 6 turns unless the last person moving wants to go longer and flips a high card each turn thereafter). My shootie crew started and I got some really good damage flips and cleared out enough of her crew so my guys could make a break for the objectives. I got the overall mission (Strategy) and my 2 side missions (Schemes)...I won again.<br />
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My third mission was against Will who ran the same crew as Angel. Hers was a quick and agile force, his was a beefy smash in your face version. He was great player and am still reeling over the beating. but get this....We are tied for third place...and we both advance to the semi finals.<br />
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Next game was versus Mike who ran Perdita as well. Great opponent and I learned a lot from him...special thanks to him for taking time to teach along the way. Our mission was "Deliver the Message" where one of your characters has to be adjacent to the other team's leader for a full turn. It boiled down to we killed everything off except our leaders and they weren't going near the other one, but he was able to get one of his secondary missions (Called Schemes) and he went on to the finals.<br />
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At this point final totals were tallied and Angel won best theme (She also dressed up to match her crew), I got best Sportsman and cool themed leather ledger (had to say that)...and for third place it went to...what? Will and I are STILL tied?!?!?!? Well, first tie break was total victory points...we were still tied! But, Will came ahead on the second tie break of head to head since he beat me in the qualifying round. So, he got third and I came in a respectable 4th.<br />
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I had to leave after that and didn't get to watch Adrien (Store Owner and overall <strong><em>Game</em></strong> <strong><em>God</em></strong>) take on Mike. But it was 2 Guild crews facing off....Mike's Perdita crew versus Adrien's Sonia crew (Think fire magic user and witch hunter). I heard that Adrien was able to come out ahead in the game and take first place. Guild wins!<br />
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So, I am hooked. It is a great game. Easy to get into as well with a low model count for games. A Crew Starter box is roughly $35 on average and is what we played in the tournie for the most part...extra models are about $10 a blister. Great community too....so I see myself playing some more for sure.SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3140451726285504841.post-21028976798560035772012-08-09T04:59:00.004-07:002012-08-09T04:59:54.016-07:00WWPD Articles and StatusJust wanted to share a few of the recent articles I have done for WWPD in case you aren't a regular viewer at WWPD (which I recommend you do daily as they always have good articles). <br />
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These articles are reviews of the models used in the Raiding Aces campaign he held at our FLGS here in Huntsville Alabama. For the articles so far we covered the forces that I played (the Autosahariana), that Adrien played (he LRDG) and that John played (the SAS). The models shown were painted by the people that played them (except the SAS, I painted those). The articles also include some tips for playing those forces. So far the articles done are:<br />
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<a href="http://www.wwpd.net/2012/07/raiding-forces-autosahariana-as42.html" target="_blank">Autosahariana AS42 Article</a><br />
<a href="http://www.wwpd.net/2012/07/raiding-forces-long-range-desert-group.html" target="_blank">LRDG Article</a><br />
<a href="http://www.wwpd.net/2012/08/raiding-forces-sas.html" target="_blank">SAS Article</a><br />
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I plan to do at least one more on the raiders...the OSS that Michael ran. That should be up in a few weeks. That is a cool force among other cool forces.<br />
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Other than that I am knee deep in the commission for Luke from WWPD and am swimming in US Infantry and Armored Rifles. Working through that and have already sent him back 2 Armored Rifle Platoons with all the fixings as well as seated GIBs (Guys in Back) in the halftracks. Luke is going to make a post on WWPD when he gets them all based (he is basing them them himself to keep a common theme across his forces....remember an earlier post I had on that? :-) ).<br />
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Oh well back to the grindstone! As long as I dont get sidetracked by any.......ooooHHHHH? what's that? Malifaux? That's that wierd game right....but the models are so pretty.....prettyprettypretty<br />
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GRRrrrrrrr!!!!!!SonBaehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17570120441435476909noreply@blogger.com0